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王正廷家宴菜谱，一份蕴藉温雅的外交官《随园食单》
来自一九三〇年代的餐桌礼仪，以生活之名， 探寻岁月珍藏的食风雅趣全球再版六十八次，尘封八十载
中英双语，原味复刻
以味觉为饵，历久弥新，重焕传统生活美学之道
【内容简介】
回顾二十世纪二三十年代，彼时西方人对中国烹饪之微妙艺术的好奇正在迅速增长。作为外交官夫人，周德丽女士敏锐地发现，品赏各式中式美食是国际宾客的共同喜好。以此为契机，她着手将私家家宴菜谱与传统中餐礼仪融于一册，以中英双语著成《中国食谱》一书（即本书之原型），于1936年在上海初次出版，后又于上海、香港、东京和纽约等地再版68次，销量逾30万册。借由介绍中餐餐仪之道与中式美食制作之法，进而向当时的西方展示中华文化是她写作此书的主要目的。而如今，这本小书亦成为我们现代读者回味旧时饮撰与人文食风的时光之匙。
【作者简介】
周德丽（Dolly Chow），又名周淑英，是一位热爱生活的卓越女士。她在上海长大，父亲周寿臣爵士是清政府首批派童赴美的留学生之一，后在清政府担任重要贸易官员，并在中华民国时期担任一系列政府职务。其丈夫为王正廷先生，是一位外交家、社区领袖。周德丽擅长烹饪艺术，也深谙中国传统餐桌礼仪之道。她于家宴交往之中感受到美食可以融通中西交流，于是创作出这一本优雅知性的美食与礼仪之书。
【目录】
目录
15 序二
21 自序
22 家庭主妇与烹饪
25 烹饪的艺术
26 烹饪之方法
29 调味法
29 面粉之用法
30 选料
30 侍餐
32 宴席
33 酒席
34 家厨酒席
35 家常便饭
51 餐桌礼仪
52 座位安排
54 中国餐仪之禁
55 执箸
56 持碗
59 餐桌食具
62 茶
68 酒与歌
72 炊具
78 配料与调料
78 酱油
78 绍兴酒
78 冬菇
79 蘑菇汤
79 山楂饼
79 竹笋
80 姜
80 葱
中馈珍藏
83 基础类
93 禽类
133 肉类
165 河海鲜类
203 菜蔬类
229 汤类
247 甜点心
261 面食
302 建议菜单
314 索引
319 后记
【前言】
近年来，旅游方式有了很大的改善，世界似乎变得如此之小，国际交流也变得更加容易。每年越来越多的游客来到中国，他们或迟或早了解到了中国的饮食。自然有很多人希望学习中国烹饪的神秘之术和各种菜肴调味品的微妙艺术。毫无疑问，外国人对中国食物的喜好正在迅速增长。香港著名饭店纷纷推出中餐菜式，中式餐馆在上海人气急升，这都证明了外国人对中国烹饪的兴趣与日俱增。
尽管东西方之间的交流越来越密切，但中国的风俗习惯仍然与西方国家大相径庭，在某些情况下，实际上与其恰恰相反。为了避免误解，同时协助外国人在中国的家庭和餐馆的环境中充分品赏中国饮食，这些关于习俗的知识对他们将非常有帮助：
在中国的宴会上，在主人对面落座的是尊贵的客人，因为从东方的角度而言，尊贵的席位循理应放在地位微者的座位的对面。主人左手边的座位被视为地位高于右手边的座位。中国习俗允许人脱掉短外套，只穿一件长袍进餐。汤和鱼只在宴会临近尾声时食用，而不像西方那样在宴会开始时食用。与西方传统的冰镇饮料相反，中国宴会提供的是温酒。
大多数老式中餐馆的室内环境，就家具和陈设而言，通常是非常朴实无华的。
在中餐中，从不提供诸如牛奶、面包、黄油或奶酪之类的食物。有时，我们认为难得的美味可能不会被外国人接受，例如熊掌、鸡脚、鸭舌、猪蹄，等等。
一个外国人面对我们的饮食时间可能会感到沮丧和不安，这并不奇怪。举个例子，我记得我的一位朋友——一位有身份的英国女士——次到中国来看她的儿子，她儿子是北平一家大型外资烟草公司的领导。她与中国饮食的次相遇是在一家餐馆，难以习惯的食物让她决定不再接受任何中式宴会的邀请，这是我后来请她吃饭时她推辞的理由。然而，她终于说服自己再试一次，接受了我的邀请。她的第二次冒险幸运得多，她告诉我，这一次她发现食物真的很美味，现在她急于要做第三次尝试。从那时起，我的这位朋友甚至可以自己在餐馆享受中国美食了。许多年前她回到了英国。在写给我的一封信中，她提及了她在中国尝到的那些美味。如果这位女士在中国待的时间不够长，她就没有机会发现真正有吸引力的美味， 她很可能会得出结论： 中式饮食是令人反感的，并且可能在回国后将这个印象传递给其他人。
我的许多外国朋友都表示，希望看到有谁能用一种便利的形式，解释中国的习俗与中式饮食的制作和食用方法。这给了我鼓励和信心，让我尝试用这本小书来完成这个任务。我也希望能帮助我的朋友在他们自己家里准备一些中式饮食，这样他们就可以向他人展示中式饮食是多么美味。
我真诚地希望这本小书将有助于美食家们从食物的美味与异国情调中获得愉悦和享受。
周德丽
【免费在线读】
酒与歌
无酒不成宴。酒可助兴舒压，使长者重焕青春，年轻者愈发朝气。适度而饮，乃绝佳助兴之物。北方偏寒之地盛产高粱， 高粱酒之烈更甚于俄罗斯伏特加与英伦杜松子，饮者甚众。
华东之绍兴酒稍温和，十分流行，可谓国酒。因其产地乃浙江之酒乡绍兴，故得名绍兴酒；其又名“花雕”，即以花雕饰之意，皆因盛酒之坛壁上常饰有花形之故。民间有俗，家中得女，双亲即制绍兴酒数坛，长置于阴凉避光之所。而酒之数量，全仗富贫之况。待女儿结秦晋之好，便可在大喜之日奉上数坛陈年佳酿以乐宾客。
华南之地，气候更暖，惯饮之酒“料半”亦更温和。料半，即中度之意。然，“双蒸”“三蒸”更烈之，亦可得。又有“橙花”“青梅”等香酒，则为后添香料加工之酒。
孔子对入口之物素讲究食精脍细，不食之物甚多，唯对酒或酒类无框定。其酒量虽无文献可考，盖同多数古时文人一样擅饮。
吾之酒量，仅抵一杯绍兴酒，是以，难言深味酒之趣。此或非憾事，论起饮酒之道，吾怀疑西方友人比起东方民众亦不遑多让。
清朝时期，曾有以官员姓名为佳酿冠名之俗。无独有偶，吾从上海酒商黄宇浩(音译)处得来的上好绍兴酒即取名LL.D.酒，名从中国一位著名律师，而此人亦是黄的顾客。为得此佳酿，吾须携律师好友之便笺访问酒家，而对不懂如何品鉴此酒的顾客，店家一概谢绝出售。
该律师现已在日内瓦，但吾丝毫不怀疑店家会继续为其供应他爱之佳酿。
在中国人看来，饮茶当处清幽之境，饮酒则应以歌助兴。此大抵为餐馆总是人声鼎沸之根源。
名留青史之文人骚客，如李白、陶潜、白居易等，无不是擅饮之辈。杯中之物乃灵感之引，饮至酣处，诗兴奔涌，翰墨淋漓。时至今日，学生们依旧在朗朗背诵他们的众多佳作。
以下诗歌乃“竹林七贤”之一亦是著名酒鬼的刘伶，为哄骗妻子以获贪杯之乐而作。某日，他告知妻，言戒酒心已定，奈何酣嗜时日已久，当在戒酒之前痛饮后一回。妻子闻言，欢喜异常，为其遍访村镇寻酒。然，刘伶得酒后，便一口饮尽，遂吟出这首与中国酒量之法有关的诗歌：
天生刘伶，以酒为名。
一饮一斛，五斗解酲。
妇人之言，慎不可听。
WINE AND SONG
No dinner is complete without wine, which brings joy and drives away depression, and makes the old feel young and the young still more youthful. Taken in moderation, it is undoubtedly an excellent stimulant. In the far north where the climate is cold and kaoliang abundant, Kaoliang wine, which is somewhat stronger than Russian vodka or English gin, is commonly drunk.
In Central China a milder drink known as Shaohsing wine—named after its producing centre in Chekiang—is very popular. It is the wine of China. It has another name Hua Tiao (花雕) meaning flower decoration, because the jars in which the wine is kept usually bear a floral decoration. When a girl is born, it is the common practice for the parents to make several jars of Shaohsing wine, the quantity depending upon the size of their purse, and keep them in a cool and dark room, until their daughter is married, so that on her wedding day, they will have at least some good old wine with which to entertain their guests.
In the South, where the climate is much warmer, a still milder drink known as Liao Pan (料半) meaning half strength, is commonly used. Stronger varieties , the double distilled (双蒸) and triple distilled (三蒸) are, however, obtainable. The flavouring of the wine is usually added afterwards, such as orange blossom (橙花) and green plum (青梅).
Though Confucius was very particular in regard to food, his list of undesirable foodstuffs being a long one, he was not so with wine, as apparently all wines were acceptable to him. There are no records as to his capacity, but he is believed to have been a good drinker like the rest of those ancient scholars.
My own capacity does not exceed one wine cup of Sha- ohsing, so I am really not qualified to say much on the art of drinking. Perhaps it is well, for it is a subject in which I suspect our Western friends can give Eastern folk quite a few lessons.
In days gone by, good wine was named after an official in Chingchow. By a strange coincidence, the best Shaohsing wine obtainable at the wine merchant Yu Ho in Shanghai is called LL. D. wine, after a famous Chinese lawyer who was one of his best customers. To secure some of this brand for my own use I have to go to the shop armed with a note from my legal friend as I know full well that I would not get it otherwise; the shop will not supply it to anyone who they think will not appreciate it.
The lawyer is now in Geneva, but I do not doubt that this shop continues to supply him with his favourite wine.
According to our ideas tea should be drunk in quiet surroundings, while wine should be accompanied by song. This may be the reason why restaurants are always noisy.
The renowned poets of old were, as a rule, good drinkers. Among them I may mention Li Po ( 李白) , T’ao Tsin ( 陶潜), and Pa Chu I ( 白居易). Wine gave them inspiration, and, when they drank enough, they wrote beautiful verses, a great number of which are still recited by school boys and girls of today.
Below is a song composed by a well-known tippler of the past who used to cheat his wife to get liquor. One day he told his wife that he had made up his mind to give up drinking, but as he had had the habit for so long, it was only fair to allow him one final session before quitting. His wife was overjoyed to hear this, and proceeded to search the whole town for the necessary wine. When he got the wine, he immediately drank the entire lot in one gulp, and then sang the following verse referring to Chinese wine measures:
Liu Ling, Liu Ling, 天生刘伶
(that’s my name)
From drinking comes my fame. 以酒为名
A “hu” each bout I take, 一饮一斛
Five “tou” I need to wake. 五斗解酲
My wife she tries to plead, 妇人之言
Her words are naught to heed. 慎不可听
